Zagori - beyond the mountains

In Epirus

in the north west of Greece, you will find the region Zagori. In short its 46 stone villages in a magnificent landscape and just one hour drive from the city Ioannina. I grew up in Stockholm, in the middle of the city. Landscapes views and nature were not around the corner. It was usually up to date on summer holidays when we went to Greece. However the exception is my earliest childhood year when I lived with my grandparents in a small mountain village. As the years goes by I’m drawn to the mountains like a magnet and love the views of the those hilly landscapes…

Zagori means beyond the mountains, from the Slavic word za “behind” and gore meaning “mountain”. During the Ottoman era Zagori flourished and that is evident in the architecture of the houses, the unique bridges and monasteries. Kalderimi is the name of the cobblestone paved roads around the stone villages in Zagori. Most importantly they are designed for foot and hoofed traffic and tie together many of the villages in the region. Zagoria or Zagori or Zagorochoria (villages of Zagori) is divided into three regions, western, eastern and central Zagori. In 2014 Greece submitted  Zagorochoria - North Pindos National Park to UNESCO, in august 2023 they became officially a part of the list - Zagori Cultural Landscape.

Megalo Papigo

Megalo Papigo

Mikro Papigo

Rogovo pools

Mikro Papigo

Mikro Papigo

West Zagori

The villages you must visit here are Megalo Papigo and Mikro Papigo, its the villages in the photos above. We actually stayed here at Mikro Papigo hotel and from here you can start your hiking up to the mountain top of mountain Tymfi and reach the top Gamilla with an altitude of 2436 meters. Beside the mountains you have the famous lake Drakolimni on the way up and about 4,5 hours from Papigo villages. In between the two villages you will find the natural swimming pools of Rogovo as the waters from the mountains pass by this spot. On your way to the village Aristi you might want to stop at Aristi bridge and perhaps join the rafting groups for a pleasant rafting tour in the river of Voidomatis to enjoy the national park from the river. This also a perfect place for intimate weddings or special celebrations, can’t imagine a more romantic place..for more inspiration check out my elopement packages.

Central Zagori

Above all the main attractions here is Vikos gorge, listed as the deepest gorge in the world by Guinness Book of Record. It begins between the villages of Monodendri and Koukouli and ends near the village Vikos. In addition village Monodendri has the most tourists as you have a spectacular view to Vikos gorge from this point. In the centre of the village you have Rizario Exhibition Culture Centre with nice handcraft and photography exhibitions. Central Zagori has the most famous stone bridges and monasteries in Zagori, don’t miss them if you are nearby. Villages like Dilofo, Kipoi are just some of the 20 villages in this section.

East Zagori

Consist of 16 villages which has the oldest villages in the area. Further this part of Zagori attracts nature lovers, hikers, scouts and hunters. On your way up to the very east you find the villages Greveniti, Elatochori, Vouvousa and Perivoli among others. I have been to Vouvousa twice as its at least a few hours drive from Ioannina city. In addition nature lovers can enjoy the national forrest of Pindos and the river Aoos  flowing  through the village of Vouvousa.

How to get here

You will reach Zagori with bus or car  from Thessaloniki, its about three hours drive to the region. The nearest airport is located in Ioannina city, now with direct charter flights from Sweden. From Ioannina its thirty minutes drive to the villages Aristi or Dilofo, to reach the very east part of Zagori about three hours drive. The roads in Zagori are new but with a number of  hairpin bends.


Aristi bridge



Kokkori bridge


At the island of Odysseus

The first time I heard about Ithaca I was probably 12 years old. My parents made an attempt to move back to Greece from Sweden and I had my first real challenge in Greek school. Homer’s epic book Odyssey was on the schedule in ancient Greek! We read the poem, a couple pages each lesson, translating it to modern Greek and then tried to understand Odysseus fantastic journey on his way to Ithaca…

The island

So last year it was time to visit the island of Odysseus, Ithaca. It’s actually a wonderful little island in the shadow of Kefalonia which is a much bigger island. If you want to explore the Greek nightlife this is not island for you! Ithaca is missing the big hotel complexes and keeps the life more still and authentic which is a blessing for some of us. Here are the things you do not want to miss when visiting the island.

Afales beach in Ithaca Greece, only accessible by boat.
Gidaki beach in Ithaca, at the Ionian Sea in Greece.

The beaches

The Ionian Islands have the coolest beaches according to my opinion and that’s because of the exiting landscapes on those islands. Some of the beaches can only be reached by boat. Afales beach is my favorite in Ithaca, the water out there is awesome. Don’t forget to ware something on your head, when you’re out there on the north point of the island. Gidaki beach is the other one. Here there is actually a bar and some pleasant sunbeds so you can enjoy the sea view with more comfort.

Kioni port in Ithaca, its all about the boats.
Frikes village, in the north part of Ithaca inn Greece.
Vathy from above - the capital in  Ithaca.

The villages

Kioni, a beautiful village with a lovely port and with plenty of restaurants. The port is surrounded with boats and yachts of any size. Frikes on the north side is another of those little villages and also the port where the ferry’s from Lefkas arrive. I addition Perachoris most fantastic view over both sides of the island, towards Kefalonia and the mainland. The village is located near the capital of Ithaca. Likewise the perfect place for photo shooting.


Is the capital of the island and founded at 16th century and was the main port in Ithaca. The town was destroyed during a fire 1956 and has then been rebuilt in original style. We stayed here at the Korina Hotel and strolled around the picturesque streets and the lovely port. The municipality organizes cultural festivals with theatrical plays, concerts, debates and art exhibits and give this island a special culture profile. Traveling to the island of Odysseus is an awesome experience specially if you want to avoid the crowds and spend your vacation in a slow mode.

If you plan to have your elopement in Greece, may I suggest this beautiful island? More about my micro weddings and elopements in Greece here.

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